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01727 826500 |
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FITTING INSTRUCTIONS |
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INSTALLATION Preparation Evaluate the job site. Always check the job site for satisfactory conditions. The sub floor must be clean, dry, firm and flat.
Procedures Choose a wall to start on. Place expansion shims against the entire perimeter of the room. Lay the first with the groove against wall. Nail or staple tongue in the nail pocket of the first row. Nailing pattern should be every 300mm or closer. You may want to face nail the first row close to the wall so the base moulding will cover when finished.
After the first row is secure, engage the planks, one at a time to start the second row. Nail/staple each plank in the tongue nail pocket as you go to secure into position. Proceed by sliding each individual board into place making sure both the tongue and groove are tight, along with the butt joints. To ensure a random pattern, make sure butt joints are at least 150mm from the butt joint of the prior row. Proceed with this procedure until you have come to the final row to complete the room.
When you have reached the final row, you will need to measure the width of the final planks. You may need to rip the planks to match the width of the space remaining. Make sure the expansion shims are in place and take the shim width into consideration when ripping the final row. The tongue for the final row will need to be removed for a clean fit. Slide the planks groove into the tongue and use a “Last Board Puller” to snug the last row of planks with the completed second to last row. You again will need to face nail close to the wall to secure. Make sure you nail close enough to the wall so that the base moulding will cover nails. |
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1. Oak planks fixed to existing boarded floors The existing sub floor should be in sound structural condition and level. It is usual to punch in any nails and check for high points with a straight edge. Where the hardwood flooring is required to run in the same direction as the existing boards, it may be overlaid with dry exterior grade plywood (minimum thickness 6mm). In each case the planks are fixed through the ply into the existing floor. If the floor is a ground floor over a cavity or unheated room, a vapour barrier, such as Thermopate, should be placed between the new hardwood floor and old floor to prevent an increase in moisture content of the new. 2. Planks fixed to existing chipboard/plywood floors The chipboard or plywood must be securely fixed to the joists. Make sure you use a vapour barrier on ground floors. 3. Planks fixed directly to timber joists. Hardwood flooring should not be fixed directly to ground floor joists over a ventilated cavity. The timber will absorb moisture from the atmosphere and expand. It is recommended that an exterior grade plywood or flooring grade T & G chipboard at least 18mm thick is first fixed to the joists followed by a vapour barrier such as Sisalkraft 420. Hardwood flooring is then fixed as in Section 2. 5. Planks fixed to softwood battens on concrete · The battens may be fixed by gluing with a recommended adhesive or by screwing and plugging. All fixings should be sunk below the surface of the batten. · The distance between the centres of battens should be 300 - 400mm. · The minimum thickness for a batten is 25mm and the normal width is 44mm. If insulation is to be laid between the battens, they may need to be 50mm deep or to suit the depth of insulation. · The concrete should be level and dry. · Any under floor pipe work should be fully pressure tested prior to laying the floor. All pipes should be effectively insulated to prevent hot spots under the floor. If not, this may cause localised shrinkage. When nailing hardwood flooring to an existing timber floor, care should be taken to avoid any under floor services - pipes, wires etc. 6. Planks bonded directly to concrete - Reduce concrete RH to 75% minimum & preferably 60%. Apply coat of epoxy resin DPM. Allow to cure. Fix wood using appropriate adhesive (Sikabond T54).
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01727 826500 |